Climbing Areas

The Burren is the Mecca of climbing in Ireland. Its unique limestone landscape is a treasure trove of climbing areas with a vast variety of routes and types of climbs. Bens Climbing Clinic generally use three main areas in the Burren.

The Ballyryan and Ailladie are located On the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (L54), 11km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5kms beyond where this road reaches the coast. The approach from the north Galway direction, travel through Ballyvaughan staying to the right at the t junction. Pass through the village of Fanore and after 4 km as the road swings to the left and the open ocean appears in front of you, there is a small car park on the left. We generally meet here and then walk to the climbs we are using that day.

We also use Scailp na Seisri close to Bell Harbour which is a good option when the weather is a bit wet and wild, because it is in a gorge it is relatively sheltered even in the worst of weathers.

If traveling from Galway travel through Kinvarra for about 10km. As the road bends around the harbour take the left into Bell Harbor towards Carren. Dalys pub is 50ms up on the left this is where we normally meet up. If traveling from Ballyvaughen head towards Kinvarra, this time turn right when the road hits the harbor into Bell Harbor.

Ballyryan

This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred meters until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher.

Ailladie

Ailladie (Aill an Daill - The Blind Man's Cliff) is an 800m long limestone sea cliff with routes varying in height from 8m to 30m. It lies out of sight below the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (L54), 11km north of Lisdoonvarna.

From the layby where cars are usually parked a short walk northward along the edge of the cliff brings one to a grassy ramp which leads down to a 3m step. This descent is used by local fishermen and is usually equipped with some rope and two metal spikes. Below this are the Dancing Ledges - an extensive non-tidal platform from which routes the first 90+ routes can be reached. Another 20+ routes are in the Mirror Wall area and access depends on the tide. For all routes further south descent is by abseil.

The rock is steep with sharp incut holds and most routes take crack lines. Protection is reasonable. Many of the routes are subject to change due to high seas and winter storms. Boulders are shifted around from year to year and consequently the grades of the starts of routes can vary considerably.

Scailp Na Seisri

This is the wildest Burren crag, a narrow, scree-choked piece of low hillside which fell away leaving two cliffs facing one another across a sunken gap. Most of the climbing is on the north (south-facing) wall on which two pillars are obvious features. The crag is located on and approached across private property and is marked on the Tim Robinson map of the Burren. Turn inland (south) at the Bell Harbour junction and consult the map